

Vendor:Americana Pipedream Apparel
Unissued German HBT Chore Coat
Description
A workwear essential: chore coats are one of the most essential pieces of workwear in menswear today. Designed for the working realities of an industrialized Europe, chore coats are typically known for a more fitted cut, as opposed to the American clothing design philosophy that bigger/boxier is better. They typically have a three (sometimes four) pocket layout across the front and interior. These German pieces are completely unused, dyed in a rich "hydrone" blue. Perfect for hiding soot and stains, the lightweight herringbone twill material offers a perfect balance of tear resistance and breathability thanks to its 100% cotton fabric. A great piece for the practical or fashion-focused among you.
Sizing: XL slim jackets are too tight in the chest and midriff to be properly called an AP "XL." Generally, if you're on the bigger side, consider sizing up from your given size.
Features:
- Authentic German surplus
- Three total pockets
- Button-up front
- Legit HBT fabric
- Brand new condition
The History
A jacket built for an industrialized Europe: chore coats were intended to be relatively durable and maneuverable for the changing working conditions of the mid to late 19th century. While later dyeing processes would lead to the well-known French moniker "bleu de travail," most early pieces were black or grey in order to hide soot and grime. Over the decades, different dyeing techniques led to new colors and distinct shades of blue. Some benzoate-aided dyes led to a bright, baby blue appearance. Around the 1950s, sulfarized vat dyes came about as a cheaper method, leading to the rich shade that is at least imitated on the jackets listed here. Over time, different professions came to be associated with distinct colors of the jacket. Coming in that late-50s blue, these HBT jackets are a lighter-weight riff on their moleskin equivalents. These pieces are best understood as a perfect lightweight alternative to the norm; still plenty durable where it counts. Designed for a more moderate climate, these jackets feature the adaptable cut the garment is known for, allowing a degree of layering when the weather cools off.
Don't let Peter Thiel ruin this classic piece of workwear. The chore coat has been and will remain an iconic piece of workwear history, regardless of Palantir's AI-generated merch.
Pairs well with
Curious About Sizing?
Given the massive variety of clothing we carry, a standard sizing guide is incredibly helpful for customers seeking the best fit.
Please understand that surplus varies widely in fit and cut and this sizing chart is general advice rather than tailor-level fitting.
Nearly every military has different sizing charts and schemes, which is why we've taken the time to put together this brief tutorial.
Jacket & Shirt Sizing
In absence of an established military size chart, we measure each jacket or shirt from armpit to armpit to get a rough idea of how it fits. If a garment is between sizes, we mark it one size down. For example, if a shirt measures 19.75" from pit to pit, it is marked as a small rather than medium.
To measure pit to pit, close up your shirt or jacket and measure from armpit to armpit.
This is our measurement guide that we use to measure garments without an existing military size chart:
14"-15" PtP = XXS
16-17" PtP = Extra Small
18"-19" PtP = Small
20-21" PtP = Medium
22-23" PtP = Large
24-25" PtP = Extra Large
26-27" PtP = XXL
28-29" PtP = 3XL
Pant Sizing
We typically convert pants to US waist and inseam sizes. If a pair of pants is between sizes, we mark it one size down. For example, if a pair of pants measures as a 33 waist, it is marked as a 32 waist.
To take these measurements we lay a pair of pants flat on the ground. We then measure across the waist and double the measurement. For example, if a pair of pants measures 16" across the waist it will fit a US 32 waist.
To determine inseam we measure from the crotch seam to the bottom of the cuff. For example, it a pair of pants measures 30" from the crotch seam to the bottom of the cuff we will list it as a 30 inseam or 30L.
Surplus Condition Guide
- Unissued
- These items are brand new. They may sometimes exhibit signs of storage. They may be new in their original factory packaging, but most times will not be.
- Issued; Good / Issued
- These items are in issued/used condition but are fully functional. This grade of surplus item may also exhibit signs of use such as stampings, small stains or general dirtiness.
- Issued items will not have missing or broken buttons, zippers or be missing any functional components unless noted as such in the product description. Any items you purchase that are marked as "Issued; Good" but exhibit these defects will be replaced free of charge by Americana Pipedream.
- Grade 2
- These items are in issued/used condition but have defects that impede function. This may include missing buttons, broken zippers, holes and tears. They may also be missing components.
- This is the lowest grade of surplus item that we carry and they are not eligible for returns or exchanges due to condition.
Prop 65 Warning
All products that are NOT INTENDED FOR CONSUMPTION OR NOT FOOD PRODUCTS fall under this warning:
“WARNING: This product contains a chemical known to the State of California to cause cancer.” WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including arsenic, which is known to the State of California to cause cancer. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.”
In stock! Ships within 3-5 business days, or we'll refund your shipping cost.
First-class customer service, guaranteed.
Free exchanges & returns.

Unissued German HBT Chore Coat
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